Sambalpuri Saree is a traditional
handwoven Ikkat saree wherein the warp and the weft are tie-dyed
before weaving. It is produced in the Bargarh, Sonepur, Sambalpur,
Balangir and Kosal region of Odisha. The saree is a traditional
female outfit in India consisting of a strip of unstitched cloth
ranging from four to nine metres.
Sambalpuri sarees are known for their
incorporation of traditional motifs like shankha (shell), chakra
(wheel), phula (flower), all of which have deep symbolism, but the
highpoint of these sarees is the traditional craftsmanship of the
'Bandhakala', the Tie-dye art reflected in their intricate weaves,
also known as Sambalpuri "Ikkat". In this technique, the
threads are first tie-dyed and later woven into a fabric, with the
entire process taking many weeks. These sarees first became popular
outside the state when the late Prime Minister Indira Gandhi started
wearing them. In the 1980s and 1990s they became popular across
India.
Sambalpuri baandha saree


Today the Baandha fabric is popularly
known by its geographical and cultural name Sambalpuri owing to the
pioneering efforts of Sri Radhashyam Meher, who brought about a
radical improvement in the skills of the craftsmen and the quality of
the products. Other master craftsmen who contributed to the
development of Sambalpuri textiles were Padmashree Kunja Bihari
Meher, 'Padmashree Chatrubhuja Meher' and 'Padmashree Krutharth
Acharya'. Sambalpuri textiles today include furnishing materials,
dress materials and sarees in silk, cotton and mercerised cotton in a
variety of colours and many different designs. Baandha craftsmen are
also masters of the 'extra warp' and 'extra weft' style of designing
which can be seen in almost all forms of Baandha textiles. Radhashyam
Meher also produced Khadi textiles using the Baandha art.
In 1926, Radhashyam designed the first
handloom to weave textiles of ninety inches width. This achievement
made him the 'Parda agent' of the Government of Bihar for the
production of furnishing materials. Later, after the formation of the
state of Odisha, he became the 'Parda agent' of the government of
Odisha. His dexterity in the Baandha art and his ability to motivate
the weaving community in the region to improve their skills by
providing the necessary training and incentives enabled the creation
of new designs that received international fame and recognition.
Radhashyam Meher established his
proprietary concern, named 'Utkal Parda Agency', at Sambalpur for the
research, production and marketing of Sambalpuri textiles.
Acknowledging Radhashyam Meher's unparalleled contribution to the
growth and popularity of 'Baandha art', the Ministry of Textiles of
the Government of India has sponsored textile exhibitions coinciding
with his birth anniversary on November 20 and organised by the
Director of Textiles of the Government of Odisha.
He also played an active role in the
cooperative movement and organised the Meher Art Fabrics cooperative
society Ltd and the Sambalpur Regional Cooperative Marketing Society
Ltd. (RCMS) He was a member of the All India Handloom Board in the
year 1953.
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