Sambalpuri Saree is a traditional
handwoven Ikkat saree wherein the warp and the weft are tie-dyed
before weaving. It is produced in the Bargarh, Sonepur, Sambalpur,
Balangir and Kosal region of Odisha. The saree is a traditional
female outfit in India consisting of a strip of unstitched cloth
ranging from four to nine metres.
Sambalpuri sarees are known for their
incorporation of traditional motifs like shankha (shell), chakra
(wheel), phula (flower), all of which have deep symbolism, but the
highpoint of these sarees is the traditional craftsmanship of the
'Bandhakala', the Tie-dye art reflected in their intricate weaves,
also known as Sambalpuri "Ikkat". In this technique, the
threads are first tie-dyed and later woven into a fabric, with the
entire process taking many weeks. These sarees first became popular
outside the state when the late Prime Minister Indira Gandhi started
wearing them. In the 1980s and 1990s they became popular across
India.
Sambalpuri baandha saree
The Sambalpuri sari is made from fabric
woven on a hand-loom and is popular throughout India. Varieties of
the Sambalpuri sari include Sonepuri, Pasapali, Bomkai, Barpali, and
Bapta saris, which are in high demand. Most of them have been named
after their places of origin and are popularly known as Pata.
Paintings on Tussar saris depicting Mathura Vijay, Raslila and
Ayodhya Vijay owe their origin to ‘Raghurajpur patta paintings’.
Sambalpuri fabrics reflect an original
style of craft known as Baandha. Traditionally, craftsmen created
Baandhas with images of flora or fauna or with geometrical patterns.
More recently,[when?] new types of Baandha depicting portrait,
landscape and flower pods are being designed. Baandha fabric is
created using a tie-dye technique. The yarns are tied according to
the desired patterns to prevent absorption of dyes, and then dyed.
The yarns or set of yarns so produced is called 'Baandha'. The unique
feature of this form of designing is that the designs are reflected
almost identically on both side of the fabric. This versatile
technique enables a craftsman to weave colourful designs, patterns
and images into a fabric capable of inspiring a thought or conveying
a message. Thus Baandha can be defined as "A length of
systematically arranged yarn, dyed according to a preconceived design
in such a manner so as to enable a weaver to portray the design when
the yarn is converted to a fabric through the process of weaving".
It is believed that this art migrated to Western Odisha along with
the Bhulia community who fled Northern India in the year 1192 AD
after the fall of the Chouhan empire at the hands of the Mughals.
Since then and up to the year 1925 it flourished in Western Odisha in
a limited number of designs and in vegetable colours and consisted
mostly of saris used by the womenfolk of the Odisha. These saris were
known as 'Bhulia-Kapta'. The demand was limited, distress sale was
common and the craftsmen lived in penury.
Today the Baandha fabric is popularly
known by its geographical and cultural name Sambalpuri owing to the
pioneering efforts of Sri Radhashyam Meher, who brought about a
radical improvement in the skills of the craftsmen and the quality of
the products. Other master craftsmen who contributed to the
development of Sambalpuri textiles were Padmashree Kunja Bihari
Meher, 'Padmashree Chatrubhuja Meher' and 'Padmashree Krutharth
Acharya'. Sambalpuri textiles today include furnishing materials,
dress materials and sarees in silk, cotton and mercerised cotton in a
variety of colours and many different designs. Baandha craftsmen are
also masters of the 'extra warp' and 'extra weft' style of designing
which can be seen in almost all forms of Baandha textiles. Radhashyam
Meher also produced Khadi textiles using the Baandha art.
In 1926, Radhashyam designed the first
handloom to weave textiles of ninety inches width. This achievement
made him the 'Parda agent' of the Government of Bihar for the
production of furnishing materials. Later, after the formation of the
state of Odisha, he became the 'Parda agent' of the government of
Odisha. His dexterity in the Baandha art and his ability to motivate
the weaving community in the region to improve their skills by
providing the necessary training and incentives enabled the creation
of new designs that received international fame and recognition.
Radhashyam Meher established his
proprietary concern, named 'Utkal Parda Agency', at Sambalpur for the
research, production and marketing of Sambalpuri textiles.
Acknowledging Radhashyam Meher's unparalleled contribution to the
growth and popularity of 'Baandha art', the Ministry of Textiles of
the Government of India has sponsored textile exhibitions coinciding
with his birth anniversary on November 20 and organised by the
Director of Textiles of the Government of Odisha.
He also played an active role in the
cooperative movement and organised the Meher Art Fabrics cooperative
society Ltd and the Sambalpur Regional Cooperative Marketing Society
Ltd. (RCMS) He was a member of the All India Handloom Board in the
year 1953.
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